Best Planters & Pots

The container you choose has a big impact on your plant’s health. Roots need space, air and proper drainage to grow well. While decorative cachepots add style, always ensure your plant sits in a pot with drainage holes so excess water can escape. These recommendations come from the University of Maryland Extension’s potting and repotting guide.

Comparing planter materials

Material	Benefits	Drawbacks
Terra cotta	Porous clay allows air exchange and encourages strong root growth	Dries out quickly and breaks easily; roots may cling to the pot
Ceramic (glazed)	Attractive, retains moisture and comes in many designs	Often lacks drainage holes; heavy and prone to chipping
Plastic or fiberglass	Lightweight, inexpensive, easy to clean and retains moisture	May lack drainage holes; can fade in sunlight and become brittle
Metal	Modern look and durable	Can heat up in direct sun; may rust without liners
Fabric grow bags	Breathable material “air‑prunes” roots, preventing circling and promoting fibrous root systems	Dry out faster and may need trays underneath
Self‑watering planters	Built‑in reservoir maintains consistent moisture (see our guide on self‑watering planters)	Not suitable for succulents or plants that prefer to dry out

Choosing the right size and style

• Size: Choose a pot 1–2 inches larger in diameter than the plant’s current root ball. Oversize pots hold too much moisture, while undersize pots restrict growth.
• Shape: Deep pots suit plants with taproots (e.g., bird of paradise), while shallow dishes are better for cacti or succulents.
• Drainage: If your decorative pot has no hole, use it as a cachepot by nesting a plastic grower’s pot inside. Empty saucers after watering to prevent root rot.
• Repotting: Replace pots every 1–2 years or when roots fill the container; gently loosen circling roots before planting.

Explore more about container materials in the University of Maryland’s potting and repotting guide.

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